PROJECT

Joanna Berzowska designs garments that become a computerized extension of our skin through sensing networks and information displays. Kukkia and Vilkas are a personal and poetic continuation of this skin. They can perhaps best be described as expressive behavioural kinetic sculptures.

Berzowska works with threads treated with Nitinol, a shape memory alloy made of nickel and titanium that is heat-sensitive and has the ability to retain shapes. By using Nitinol together with various textiles (particularly felt) and electronic components, she creates highly original animated dresses. Paying little heed to considerations of utility and applying a flair that surprises and seduces, Berzowska infuses Kukkia and Vilkas with a sense of the playful.

The movement that animates these sculpted dresses comes from unexpected places and manifests itself by contradicting or reinforcing the body’s natural movements. For example, in just 30 seconds, the hemline of Vilkas rises to reveal the knee and lower thigh. Because the movement is autonomous, the behaviour of the dress can be viewed as either amusing or embarrassing, depending on the social context.

Decorated with three flowers that independently open and close within the space of 15 seconds, Kukkia maintains a visceral relationship and a genuine dialogue with the wearer. The flowers gently open around the neckline, evoking natural movements such as a breath or heartbeat. The dress is reminiscent of a curtain that reveals and hides, protects and exposes.